Showing posts with label Arctic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Arctic. Show all posts

Friday, July 26, 2019

4 Alternative City Breaks

Tromso


Northern Norway’s snowy mountains are a constant reminder that you’re in the arctic circle.  Like snowy owls poised for take off, they’re a silent companion to the choppy fjords.


Tromso has been inhabited for 11,000 years but the population has grown with the increase in scientific research in the arctic and the number of people wanting to hunt the Northern Lights.

If you’re lucky enough, the Lights will grace your city break with their green and purple dance whilst you’re wandering between bars.  If not, there are also loads of things to increase your chances as well, like 4WD excursions and boat tours which will ‘chase’ the lights to the locations with the highest chances. Alternatively, staying out of the city at Malangen Resort with its fire-lit shelter over a frozen lake is a warmer alternative.

There’s a strange mix of Scandinavian-style log buildings in green and maroon and old, wooden ships set against the toberlone-y Arctic Cathedral, and the fallen-domino Polaria, which is the world’s most northernly aquarium. 

The seals, including two harbour seals Lyra and Loffen, play in a cleverly-designed enclosure that disorients you whilst you walk over, under and through their pool.  They’re fed in front of visitors daily, and it’s not a ‘show,’ it’s a set of carefully chosen activities to entertain the seals and feed them responsibly. 

In the evening, try Steakers for their great steak choices and view of the mountains behind the harbour.  Walk around the restaurant to see their wine selection on display in medieval-style shelving and in temperature-controlled cupboards.

Agenturet Bar has a great atmosphere for relaxing and chatting, and they have over 120 beers and 250 wines to choose from, so there is certainly enough to keep you going for a while.

Basel

Switzerland is the 7th largest consumer of wine per capita in the world, which means there isn’t much Swiss wine left to export to other countries.  They have some unique grapes, like petite arvine and amigne, which aren’t planted anywhere else in the world.  For a friendly and welcoming (as well as very informative!) tasting session see the Wine Guru on Wheels.  

If that isn’t enough, the Les Trois Rois’ is formal inside but has a relaxed terrace overlooking the river; perfect for wine, cocktails and cigars.  Downstairs in the basement are dusty boxes to nod at as you pretend to understand why the contents are valuable.

It’s hard not to be taken in by the class of this city.  There are two old parts to Basel and timber-framed buildings have hand-painted dates above the doors, some dating all the way back to the 1300s.  In other areas, stone buildings impose themselves with a certain dignity, like they have wisdom to pass on if only we would stop and listen. 

Basel is one of the easiest cities to explore because of its extensive tram network. Your hotel will give you a Basel Card, giving you free access to public transport and the city’s Wi-Fi network whilst you’re on the move. This is great because it isn’t part of the EU’s free data roaming network. 

Summer temperatures can be in the high, when I was there it was 38˚!  To cool off, borrow a dry bag from your hotel and join the constant stream of people floating down the Rhine.  Then get out, walk back upstream and repeat until you can stand the heat again. 

The current is strong and it looks scary at first because people are floating downstream much faster than you could walk the same distance, but if you follow the crowd, it’s quite easy to swim to the side and grab onto the chains before climbing out up the steps.

Basel’s biggest festival is after Ash Wednesday and lasts exactly 72 hours (starting at 4am on the Monday).  Residents are generally granted 3 days off work to celebrate and there are parades where people where extravagant masks.  The imagery of the harlequins can be spotted through the city all year, on lamps, street art and doorways.


Norwich

Legend has it that Norwich’s city walls protected a church for every Sunday of the year and pub for each day.  Largely untouched by the industrial revolution, a walk through the city will take you past picturesque flint buildings, two cathedrals and wonky medieval windows.

If getting involved with locals is your thing, stand elbow-to-elbow with them in the annual beer festival each October in St Andrews Hall, surrounded by paintings of grand Lord Mayors in their red robes. 

Local and smaller national breweries are represented, and the beer and ciders are available in ⅓, ½ or pints (for the brave).  There’s also an international tent for lagers by the bottle. The glasses make great souvenirs because they have a different design each year, normally containing a dragon.

In 2014, Norwich won the Great British High Street award because of its huge selection of independent shops, restaurants and bars.  Here’s a map here to help you navigate.  To eat, I’d recommend the market for lunch because there’s a huge range of food stalls from hog roast to noodles. 

There are so many great independent restaurants here.  If you like Italian, try Trattoria Rustica which is owned and run by a family from Sardinia, so the quality of food and variety of dishes is a lot better than standard chain restaurants.  

Alternatively, Delia’s (by Delia Smith) is open each Friday and Saturday nights and has a slightly formal but relaxed atmosphere and a great menu which changes every 6 weeks.



Bilbao


Although Bilbao is a huge, industrial city, you can sit in a pintxos bar and watch as local people tour from bar to bar to greet friends and relatives as if you’re in a village somewhere in the provinces.

Some of these pinxtos bars are very traditional, with a glass display area on the bar showing the different dishes on offer.  Others, like the oyster and wine bar, El Puertito, are more modern.  This bar displays oysters on ice from different regions across Europe for you to choose from.  These can be paired with their extensive choice of wines.

The Artxanda Funicular railway heaves itself up the mountain from downtown Bilbao.  At the top, the city spans out before you.  Rooftops merge from old to new, with the Guggenheim front and centre against the river.

The Guggenheim itself is great to see up close.  I loved standing on the river side and waiting for Fujiko Nakaya’s fog sculpture to shroud both tourist and building in mystery.  Unless you’re really into modern art, I’d recommend being satisfied by the sculptures outside and then moving on. 

The museum is walking distance from the old town of Bilbao, Casco Viejo, connected by bridges over the river.  It’s curling, confusing streets are easy to get lost in (“I think we need to turn right at this ice cream parlour?”).  I loved the Pampling T-shirt shop, which is floor-to-ceiling pop culture on shirts.

If you’re a cocktail fan, the Sir Winston Churchill Pub is back over on the modern side of the city and has more than 400 spirits and liqueurs to choose from and an expert bar team to provide any cocktail combination you can think of. 


Wednesday, March 27, 2019

Northern Lights Hunt - Bonus Part

"No offence, but I hope I don't see you again," I said to the barman as we left Agenturet beer and winebar.  In one of Tromso's oldest buildings, it was such a nice space to sit and relax in, we'd returned on our surprise extra night.

So far in life, I've had quite good luck with flights.

I made up for this in one trip, here are the reasons why my flights were delayed:
  • Fog at destination
  • Crew delayed because of a previous delayed flight
  • Missed connection
  • Too windy to land
  • Too snowy to take off
  • De-icing machine busy
  • Technical fault whilst trying to take off
  • Plane switched to one with fewer seats, asked to switch for compensation, said no, got switched anyway with no compensation
The clouds were clearing again during the day, but not for long enough for us to be lucky with the lights.  My thanks went out to the friend who advised me that they could actually be seen over the UK at the weekend, so my whole trip was pointless.

My Hunt for the Northern Lights was unsuccessful, so was it worth it?  Well, I'd spent the weekend in a cabin with my family, making jokes about being attacked by ghosts in the middle of nowhere, rested in a hammock over a frozen lake and seen my mum toast her first marshmallow over a fire.

It's not a new or original thought, but I suppose because so much had gone wrong with the journeys that it reminded me that travel isn't about why you go somewhere but what happens whilst you're there.

To be fair, it was pretty snowy.
This plane is at the gate awaiting boarding.
Somewhere behind it is a runway and the rest of the airport.

Tuesday, March 26, 2019

Northern Lights Hunt - Part Three

The day was something we had to get through before evening.

Luckily, Tromso is self-aware and knows that its winter tourists suffer the day to await the night.  There's a mix of architecture here, from the classic Scandinavian wooden buildings, painted in bold greens and reds, sat against modern designs like the toblerone-eqsue Arctic Cathedral.

By the harbour is a curious building, which would be a boring set of concrete blocks had they not appeared to have collapsed in the cold arctic wind, creating a fallen dominoes effect. 

You can attach the "World's Most Northernly" accolade to almost every attraction here, so when we entered the dominoes, we were in Polaria, the World's Most Northernly Aquarium. 

This is Loffen, a harbour seal in Polaria
It's quite small for an aquarium, with a focus on the lifecycle of the ocean, from tiny plankton through to polar bears.  Its main attraction are the four seals, two bearded ones and two harbour.  You can walk over, under and through the seal pool, giving an illusion of being surrounded by their play area.  There's no seal "show" at Polaria, but visitors are invited to watch the keepers feed and train them, an activity they do five times a day to keep them mentally and physically stimulated.  It was much more engaging and honest than a display that everyone has seen at every zoo and aquarium explaining the differences between seals and sea lions and giving the animals fake personalities.  This way we were able to see the genuine relationships between the keepers and seals, as well as being amazed by them playing fetch and jumping in the air.

I'm dragging on about the day because unfortunately the night was the same story; strong aurora activity predicted but too cloudy to see.  It continued to snow, though.
There are no polar bears in the arctic
because they are all stuffed
in bars in Tromso







Sunday, March 24, 2019

Northern Lights Hunt - Part 2

Oh, what are clouds compared to rocks and mountains?

The Sami legend has it that the Northern Lights are our ancestors returning to capture naughty children.  The aurora activity was so high that night, our ancestors would have scolded children in Scotland.  The perfect night to be warmed by a wood fire and watch the lights over a frozen lake.

Or, alternatively, to stand in the cold making small talk about the weather.

The Hunt continues...

Is it an adventure if you don't smell of woodsmoke?

Saturday, March 23, 2019

Northern Lights Hunt - Part 1

Arriving in Tromso was a calamity. There was fog in Amsterdam, so each flight was delayed and we missed the connection to Tromso. Added to that, I managed to crack the screen in my new laptop, which is en pointe for my character really.

It was sleeting and sleet means cloud so no aurora that night.

Good Morning, Arctic
The cabin here at Malangen Resort is set right on the sea and the waves lap the rocks under our terrace.  When I woke in the morning, I could see the mountains for the first time in the light.  White and lined with half-bare pine trees they are topped with cloud.

Tonight, we are heading to Camp Nikka, a base about 3km away, to hopefully catch the Northern Lights.


 

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